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Permaculture Food Forest

  Imagine stepping into your backyard and picking fresh fruits, nuts, and vegetables without having to plant and tend to a traditional garden every year. This is the magic of a permaculture food forest. It's not just a garden, but an ecosystem designed to mimic nature's patterns, providing you with a sustainable and self-sufficient source of food. You might be wondering how this is possible and what it takes to create such an abundance in your own space. As you dive deeper into the world of permaculture food forests, you’ll discover a revolutionary approach to gardening that not only feeds your body but also nourishes the planet. Curious about how you can transform your land into a lush, productive paradise? Stick around, and you'll learn the secrets to cultivating a thriving food forest that aligns with nature's wisdom. Permaculture Basics Permaculture has become an increasingly popular approach to sustainable living. It combines nature's patterns with human ingenu...
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🌍 Permaculture Assistant Hub

 


Permaculture Assistant Hub

This hub organizes the essentials of permaculture into fast, helpful sections with practical steps, quick formulas, and deep-dive links.


📑 Table of Contents


🌊 Water Systems: Capture, Store, Slow–Spread–Sink

Water planning comes first because it drives everything else. Smart systems catch rainfall at the top of your site, store part of it in tanks and in soil, reuse household greywater safely, and route storm overflow without erosion. Done well, you’ll irrigate less, survive dry spells, and recover faster after heavy rain.

Start here

Quick-start formula

Rain tank size ≈ roof area (sq ft) × rainfall (in) × 0.623 × 0.75. Example: 1,000 sq ft × 2 in × 0.623 × 0.75 ≈ ~935 gallons.

FAQs

  • Can I drink rainwater off my roof? Only with proper filtration and disinfection. Otherwise, use it for irrigation.
  • Swales or French drains? Swales infiltrate on contour; French drains move water away. Many sites use both.
  • Is greywater safe for vegetables? Apply to soil (not leaves), prioritize perennials/fruit trees, and use low-salt soaps.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

USGS Water Science School


🌱 Soil & Compost: Living Soil Without Tilling

Soil is a living community. Instead of tilling (which breaks structure and biology), build fertility by layering organic matter, mulching, and keeping roots in the ground. Healthy soil holds more water, releases nutrients steadily, and resists weeds and disease. Start small, protect the soil food web, and let biology do the heavy lifting.

Start here

Quick-start how-to: Weekend no-till bed

  1. Mow low; don’t till.
  2. Overlap cardboard (no gaps).
  3. Add 2–4" compost + 2–4" mulch.
  4. Slice slits and plant transplants; keep covered.

FAQs

  • How long does compost take? 2–6 months depending on temperature and material balance.
  • Can a raised bed be 100% compost? No. Blend topsoil + 25–33% compost for structure.
  • Broadfork every year? No. One initial loosening is plenty if you avoid future tillage.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

USDA NRCS: Soil Health


🌳 Food Forests & Plant Guilds

Food forests mimic natural woodland layers: canopy, shrubs, herbs, groundcovers, climbers, and roots. In a guild, each plant has a role—nitrogen fixer, dynamic accumulator, pest ally, or living mulch—so the system becomes more productive and stable over time. Start with a small, well-chosen mix and expand as the canopy fills in.

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Quick-start recipe: 5–7 species starter guild

  • Anchor: dwarf fruit/berry
  • N-fixer: clover, vetch, or goumi
  • Accumulator: comfrey or yarrow (chop-and-drop)
  • Pest ally: dill, alyssum, calendula
  • Groundcover: thyme or alpine strawberry

FAQs

  • Do annuals belong in guilds? Yes—use fast annuals as fillers during establishment.
  • How close to the trunk? Keep the dripline airy; tuck herbs just outside it.
  • When to add climbers? After structure is set; avoid shading young anchors.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

Permaculture Institute


🐝 Pests & Pollinators

Long-term pest control is ecological: diversify plantings, provide nectar and habitat for predators, and only spot-treat when monitoring shows you must. A yard rich in bloom from spring to fall will invite bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects that keep outbreaks in check.

Start here

Quick-start wins

  • Edge beds with alyssum, dill, yarrow to feed predators.
  • Use nasturtium as a sacrificial trap for aphids.
  • Follow IPM: monitor → identify → cultural/biological → spot-treat last.

FAQs

  • Are “natural” sprays always safe? Lower toxicity, not zero risk. Avoid bloom/heat and target pests precisely.
  • How do I protect pollinators? Provide water, continuous bloom, safe nesting sites, and avoid broad-spectrum sprays.
  • Do beneficials overwinter? Many do—leave some leaf litter and hollow stems.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

Pollinator Partnership


🌍 Climate Resilience

Weather swings harder than it used to. You’ll buffer heat, drought, and storms by storing water in soil, shading sensitive crops, routing overflow safely, and extending seasons with simple structures. The goal isn’t perfection—it’s a system that bends without breaking.

Start here

Quick-start playbooks

  • Heat/drought: deep mulch, morning drip, 30–40% shade cloth, windbreaks that slow (not block) wind.
  • Flood: elevate key beds; armor spillways with rock/mulch; route overflow to safe areas.

FAQs

  • Which plants handle drought best? Many natives, Mediterranean herbs, and deep-rooted perennials—water consistently in year one, then taper.
  • Greenhouse or cold frame? Cold frames are budget season-extenders; greenhouses give 4-season control if ventilated/shaded well.
  • How do I recover after floods? Let soils drain and smell earthy (not sour), re-mulch, replant hardy species, rebuild water paths first.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

FAO: Climate-Smart Agriculture


🏙 Urban & Small-Space Permaculture

Acreage is optional. Balconies, rooftops, and small yards can produce a surprising amount of food with smart containers, vertical trellises, and good light management. Focus on airflow, watering efficiency, and varieties that thrive in tight spaces.

Start here

Quick-start container guide

  • Sizes: greens 1–3 gal; tomatoes/peppers 5–10 gal; dwarf trees large tubs with drainage.
  • Mix: potting soil + 20–30% compost + perlite/coco; mulch the top to slow evaporation.
  • Trellis: lightweight A-frames; secure to railings; check weight/HOA rules.

FAQs

  • Are LED grow lights worth it? Yes for low-light spaces—use full spectrum, correct distance, and 14–16h for greens.
  • How do I compost without smells? Worm bins or bokashi indoors; keep bedding airy and drain leachate.
  • Where to find more space? Community gardens, yard shares, permitted rooftops.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

City Farmer: Urban Agriculture


📖 Principles & Design

Principles turn random tips into a coherent plan. Observe first, then map zones (how often you visit) and sectors (sun, wind, water, views, noise, fire). Place water first, then access, structures, gardens, and trees—installed in phases, so each season informs the next.

Start here

Quick-start workflow

  1. Observe flows (sun, wind, water, traffic).
  2. Sketch zones 1–5; shrink distances on small lots.
  3. Place water first → then access → structures → gardens/trees.
  4. Install in phases; adjust from real-world feedback.

FAQs

  • Is permaculture just “organic plus”? No—organic is about inputs; permaculture is a design framework that arranges elements to support each other (often using organic practices).
  • Where should beginners start? Zone 1: one no-till bed near the door, heavy mulch, easy crops—then expand.
  • How do I measure success? Lower inputs, improved soil structure/organic matter, fewer outbreaks, higher yields, more biodiversity.

Also see inside this hub

External resource

SARE: Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education


Next Steps

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