Is permaculture just organic plus?

No—organic is about inputs; permaculture is a design framework that arranges elements to support each other (often using organic practices).

Where should beginners start?

Start in Zone 1 with one no-till bed near the door, heavy mulch, and easy crops; expand after a season of observation.

Do I still need irrigation if I mulch?

In year one, yes. Mulch reduces frequency, but consistent moisture establishes roots that later need less water.

Can I do permaculture in an apartment?

Yes—containers, vertical trellises, worm bins/bokashi, and light shelves. See the Urban & Small-Space section above.

🌍 Permaculture Assistant Hub

Permaculture Assistant Hub

This hub organizes the essentials of permaculture into fast, helpful sections with practical steps, quick formulas, and deep-dive links.

🌊 Water Systems: Capture, Store, Slow–Spread–Sink

Water planning comes first because it drives everything else. Smart systems catch rainfall at the top of your site, store part of it in tanks and in soil, reuse household greywater safely, and route storm overflow without erosion. Done well, you’ll irrigate less, survive dry spells, and recover faster after heavy rain.

Start here

Quick-start formula

Rain tank size ≈ roof area (sq ft) × rainfall (in) × 0.623 × 0.75. Example: 1,000 sq ft × 2 in × 0.623 × 0.75 ≈ ~935 gallons.

FAQs

Can I drink rainwater off my roof? Only with proper filtration and disinfection. Otherwise, use it for irrigation.
Swales or French drains? Swales infiltrate on contour; French drains move water away. Many sites use both.
Is greywater safe for vegetables? Apply to soil (not leaves), prioritize perennials/fruit trees, and use low-salt soaps.

Also see inside this hub

Soil & Compost — living soil increases infiltration.
Climate Resilience — plan for floods and drought.
Principles & Design — place water first in the plan.

External resource

USGS Water Science School

🌱 Soil & Compost: Living Soil Without Tilling

Soil is a living community. Instead of tilling (which breaks structure and biology), build fertility by layering organic matter, mulching, and keeping roots in the ground. Healthy soil holds more water, releases nutrients steadily, and resists weeds and disease. Start small, protect the soil food web, and let biology do the heavy lifting.

Start here

Quick-start how-to: Weekend no-till bed

Mow low; don’t till.
Overlap cardboard (no gaps).
Add 2–4" compost + 2–4" mulch.
Slice slits and plant transplants; keep covered.

FAQs

How long does compost take? 2–6 months depending on temperature and material balance.
Can a raised bed be 100% compost? No. Blend topsoil + 25–33% compost for structure.
Broadfork every year? No. One initial loosening is plenty if you avoid future tillage.

Also see inside this hub

Water Systems — soil structure drives infiltration.
Food Forests & Guilds — mulch and roots feed biology.
Principles & Design — schedule soil building by zones.

External resource

USDA NRCS: Soil Health

🌳 Food Forests & Plant Guilds

Food forests mimic natural woodland layers: canopy, shrubs, herbs, groundcovers, climbers, and roots. In a guild, each plant has a role—nitrogen fixer, dynamic accumulator, pest ally, or living mulch—so the system becomes more productive and stable over time. Start with a small, well-chosen mix and expand as the canopy fills in.

Start here

Quick-start recipe: 5–7 species starter guild

Anchor: dwarf fruit/berry
N-fixer: clover, vetch, or goumi
Accumulator: comfrey or yarrow (chop-and-drop)
Pest ally: dill, alyssum, calendula
Groundcover: thyme or alpine strawberry

FAQs

Do annuals belong in guilds? Yes—use fast annuals as fillers during establishment.
How close to the trunk? Keep the dripline airy; tuck herbs just outside it.
When to add climbers? After structure is set; avoid shading young anchors.

Also see inside this hub

Soil & Compost — fungal networks support guilds.
Pests & Pollinators — blooms feed beneficial insects.
Principles & Design — spacing and succession planning.

External resource

Permaculture Institute

🐝 Pests & Pollinators

Long-term pest control is ecological: diversify plantings, provide nectar and habitat for predators, and only spot-treat when monitoring shows you must. A yard rich in bloom from spring to fall will invite bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects that keep outbreaks in check.

Start here

Quick-start wins

Edge beds with alyssum, dill, yarrow to feed predators.
Use nasturtium as a sacrificial trap for aphids.
Follow IPM: monitor → identify → cultural/biological → spot-treat last.

FAQs

Are “natural” sprays always safe? Lower toxicity, not zero risk. Avoid bloom/heat and target pests precisely.
How do I protect pollinators? Provide water, continuous bloom, safe nesting sites, and avoid broad-spectrum sprays.
Do beneficials overwinter? Many do—leave some leaf litter and hollow stems.

Also see inside this hub

Food Forests & Guilds — diversity suppresses pests.
Soil & Compost — healthy roots resist stress.
Climate Resilience — heat/wind management reduces outbreaks.

External resource

Pollinator Partnership

🌍 Climate Resilience

Weather swings harder than it used to. You’ll buffer heat, drought, and storms by storing water in soil, shading sensitive crops, routing overflow safely, and extending seasons with simple structures. The goal isn’t perfection—it’s a system that bends without breaking.

Start here

Quick-start playbooks

Heat/drought: deep mulch, morning drip, 30–40% shade cloth, windbreaks that slow (not block) wind.
Flood: elevate key beds; armor spillways with rock/mulch; route overflow to safe areas.

FAQs

Which plants handle drought best? Many natives, Mediterranean herbs, and deep-rooted perennials—water consistently in year one, then taper.
Greenhouse or cold frame? Cold frames are budget season-extenders; greenhouses give 4-season control if ventilated/shaded well.
How do I recover after floods? Let soils drain and smell earthy (not sour), re-mulch, replant hardy species, rebuild water paths first.

Also see inside this hub

Water Systems — storage and overflow design.
Soil & Compost — mulch buffers extremes.
Urban & Small-Space — season extension in tight sites.

External resource

FAO: Climate-Smart Agriculture

🏙 Urban & Small-Space Permaculture

Acreage is optional. Balconies, rooftops, and small yards can produce a surprising amount of food with smart containers, vertical trellises, and good light management. Focus on airflow, watering efficiency, and varieties that thrive in tight spaces.

Start here

Quick-start container guide

Sizes: greens 1–3 gal; tomatoes/peppers 5–10 gal; dwarf trees large tubs with drainage.
Mix: potting soil + 20–30% compost + perlite/coco; mulch the top to slow evaporation.
Trellis: lightweight A-frames; secure to railings; check weight/HOA rules.

FAQs

Are LED grow lights worth it? Yes for low-light spaces—use full spectrum, correct distance, and 14–16h for greens.
How do I compost without smells? Worm bins or bokashi indoors; keep bedding airy and drain leachate.
Where to find more space? Community gardens, yard shares, permitted rooftops.

Also see inside this hub

Water Systems — rooftop catchment and efficient drip.
Soil & Compost — potting mixes and vermicompost.
Principles & Design — zones/sectors scaled to apartments.

External resource

City Farmer: Urban Agriculture

📖 Principles & Design

Principles turn random tips into a coherent plan. Observe first, then map zones (how often you visit) and sectors (sun, wind, water, views, noise, fire). Place water first, then access, structures, gardens, and trees—installed in phases, so each season informs the next.

Start here

Quick-start workflow

Observe flows (sun, wind, water, traffic).
Sketch zones 1–5; shrink distances on small lots.
Place water first → then access → structures → gardens/trees.
Install in phases; adjust from real-world feedback.

FAQs

Is permaculture just “organic plus”? No—organic is about inputs; permaculture is a design framework that arranges elements to support each other (often using organic practices).
Where should beginners start? Zone 1: one no-till bed near the door, heavy mulch, easy crops—then expand.
How do I measure success? Lower inputs, improved soil structure/organic matter, fewer outbreaks, higher yields, more biodiversity.

Also see inside this hub

Water Systems — always placed first.
Soil & Compost — phase soil building.
Climate Resilience — design for extremes before planting.

External resource

SARE: Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education

Next Steps

Deepen your knowledge with No-Till Gardening and Harvesting Water.
Learn more at the Permaculture Assistant site.
Map your system with the Permaculture Assistant Software.
Recommended Course Master Gardener Course
Free Permaculture E-book Permaculture + Prepping